Ecco un mio articolo, di “sapore” piuttosto estivo apparso recentemente su Foodstories:
Meravigliosi da vedere i “piennoli”, i grandi grappoli di pomodorini del Vesuvio, hanno un sapore inimitabile, che si concentra man mano che passa il tempo. Durano tutto l’inverno e rappresentano un metodo naturale di conservazione.
Estate, caldo, tempo di insalate e pomodori, magari insieme in un unico pot pourri colorato e fresco. “Non ci sono più i pomodori di una volta”. Quante volta capita di pensarlo, mangiando un pomodoro apparentemente bellissimo ma dal sapore di una zucca.
Allora parliamo di un’ottimo prodotto campano, dato che matura ed è pronto proprio in questo periodo.
Il pomodorino del piennolo deve il suo nome alla consuetudine dei contadini vesuviani di intrecciare, intorno ad uno spago legato a cerchio, i grappoli di pomodorini, sino a formare un grande grappolo (il piennolo) che viene poi appeso in un ambiente asciutto e ventilato.
I pomodorini potranno così essere staccati di volta in volta dal “piennolo” per essere consumati nei mesi successivi. Si tratta di un metodo di conservazione che, unito alla qualità della buccia piuttosto spessa, consente di utilizzarli per molti mesi.
Si coltivano in tutta la zona del Vesuvio, fino a 450 mt, in terreni piuttosto secchi di materiale lavico, sabbiosi, permeabili, quindi ricchi di potassio e privi di sostanze organiche (azoto). La povertà del terreno determina una bassa resa, rendendo il prodotto piuttosto ricercato.
La forma è caratteristica, ovale, appuntita, con solchi laterali (coste), la polpa è soda, con poca acqua e saporitissima, grazie alla ricchezza di zuccheri e Sali minerali.
Si tratta di un pomodoro ricchissimo dal punto di vista organolettico, in cui convivono, dolcezza, acidità e un retrogusto amaro, che lo rendono protagonista dei sughi, da solo o nelle ricette a base di pesce, ma ottimo anche consumato a crudo. Si trova nei mercati, sia allo stato fresco, venduto appena raccolto sui mercati locali, che nella tipica forma conservata in appesa -“al piennolo”-, oppure anche come conserva in vetro, secondo un’antica ricetta familiare dell’area, denominata “a pacchetelle”, anch’essa contemplata nel disciplinare di produzione della DOP.
E proprio per la sua bontà e la sua unicità oltre alla DOP il pomodorino del piennolo è anche presidio Slow Food.
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