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TEMPO DI BRUSCANDOLI, UNA RICETTA DIVERSA

Se siete veneti sapete che cosa sono i bruscandoli (o vidisoni), nel caso non lo foste, ve lo spiego. Sono chiamati bruscandoli i gettiti spontanei del Luppolo selvatico (Humulus lupulus). Se vi interessa appartiene alla stessa famiglia della canapa (Cannabis Sp.), delle Cannabaceae; ordine delle Urticali. Però fumata non rende un gran che e non urtica come l’ortica. Pianta avvolgente, quasi infestante, nei boschi incolti e sugli argini dei fiumi e dei torrenti forma intrichi invalicabili e cresce di 5 o 6 metri l’anno.
Gli apici vegetativi colti a primavera (i bruscandoli, appunto) sono usatissimi in cucina, e non solo da contadini, per il loro sapore aspretto di verde.
In Lombardia si chiamano aspargina, luvertìn in Piemonte, lavertìn in Monferrato, luperi in Umbria, vartìs in Emilia-Romagna, bruscandolo a Trieste, urtizon in Friuli, , viticedda nel Cilento.

Si usano normalmente per gli usi dell’asparago (da qui l’erroneo asparago selvatico) anche lessati con olio sale e limone. Più sono grossi, più sono gustosi. Perfetti anche in risotti, frittate e minestre.

Cercherò di essere più originale e di proporvi qualcosa di alternativo a quanto elencato, cioè una crema di bruscandoli con morchelle farcite di scampi.

700 gr. di bruscandoli – 1,5 lt. di brodo vegetale- 70 gr. di burro – 1 cucchiaio di farina bianca
12 morchelle di medie dimensioni, fresche o secche – 6 scampi freschi – 1 albume – 1/2 bicchiere di Prosecco – sale e pepe

Sgusciate gli scampi e passateli al mixer con sale, pepe e l’albume crudo. Fate cuocere teste e gusci nel brodo vegetale, che poi filtrerete. Se si impiegano morchelle secche, fatele rinvenire per un paio d’ore in acqua e latte e trattatele poi come quelle fresche (unendo il loro liquido di ripresa filtrato al brodo).  Breve inciso: la morchella esculenta è un fungo di forma più che vagamente fallica dal sapore dolciastro e delicato che cresce a primavera sotto olmi e pioppi, da mangiare rigorosamente cotti perché contengono acido elvellico, micotossina termolabile. Dunque sciacquatele e cuocetele a lungo, a fuoco dolce, in una casseruola con una noce di burro e poco sale, bagnandole col brodo. Lasciate raffreddare. Mettete il composto di scampi in un sac-à-poche e farcite le morchelle (dal gambo cavo). Spadellatele rapidamente a fuoco vivo, salate, pepate, irrorate con il Prosecco e lasciate sfumare. Lavate i bruscandoli e cuoceteli con poco burro, fate evaporare l’acqua di vegetazione. Salate leggermente e frullateli al mixer. In una pentola sciogliete il restante burro, stemperatevi la farina, cuocete qualche istante ed unite il brodo. Aggiungete il composto di bruscandoli e lasciate ispessire dolcemente la crema. Servite in ogni piatto un mestolo di crema, disponendovi due morchelle tagliate per il lungo con la farcia in bella mostra.

Buon appetito

Elena

281 Comments

  1. Ida Tosatto Reply
    Aprile 6, 2013 at 13:30

    Cara Elena ho provato questa ricetta ed è stato un vero piacere gustarla. Sono veneta e amo la cucina regionale con i prodotti locali e spontanei. Ho avuto la fortuna di avere a disposizione sia i bruscandoli che le morchelle grazie ad un amico che conosce benissimo il territorio e i suoi prodotti e devo dire che con la tua ricetta ha soddisfatto in pieno il mio desiderio di cucinarli e proporli in modo diverso ma anche raffinato. Grazie

    • enogastronomiablog_admin Reply
      Aprile 8, 2013 at 10:03

      Sono contenta che t sia iaciuta. Siamo giusto in stagione e sarebbe bello procurarseli da soli, lungo i fiumi. Soprattutto se smettesse di povere…

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