Mi è rimasto in bocca il sapore della torta sanremasca, come ho detto, sapore dei ricordi. Allora ne cerco un altro, stesso posto, stesso mare, stesso tipo di cibo, una pizza, la “sardenaira”.
Mi correggo, da uno dei miei pusher preferiti di sardenaira da quando avevo tre anni, le “Cantine sanremesi” di via Palazzo (a San Remo, ovviamente), c’era una scritta minacciosa sopra al forno che diceva più o meno così: ”Turista, a nu se po ciama’ pissa a sardenaira”. Chiedo scusa per il mio pessimo ligure.
Anche l’origine della sardenaira è decisamente antecedente di qualche secolo a quella della pizza, risalendo al 1490, e chiaramente il pomodoro verrà aggiunto in seguito, nell’800. Fra l’altro, a ben vedere, il termine pizza non è certo partenopeo, in quanto l’etimologia sembra derivare dal termine latino “pinsere”, che vuol dire schiacciare, da cui anche il veneziano “pistor”, panettiere
Tornando alla sardenaira, paese che vai, nome che trovi: Pissalandrea a Oneglia, in onere all’ammiraglio Andrea Doria. Pisadala a Bordighera. Pisciadela a Ventimiglia assonante con la Pissalandière di Nizza. Sardenaire a San Remo perché era guarnita con le sardine sottosale, oggi con acciughe. Macchettusa ad Apricale per l’uso di una delle cinque salse da mortaio liguri, il “machetto”, salsa parente del “garum” preparato con le sardine, ma chiamato pasta d’acciughe. Il termine dialettale sta per pestare, pigiare, durante la sua preparazione. Questo preparato irrobustisce il condiglione (insalata di pomodori con molti ingredienti estivi) Piscadra a Pigna. La ricetta è sempre la stessa.
Pasta
Farina Manitoba 250 gr
Farina00 250 gr
Acqua 550 ml circa
Olio extravergine di Oneglia 100 ml
Sale fino 30 gr
Sale grosso
Lievito di birra 20 gr
Impastare a mano o con la planetaria farine, acqua, lievito, olio e alla fine sale.. Ad impasto formato aggiungere il lievito sbriciolato.
In teglia da 40×25 unta con olio extravergine li, mettere panetto da 500g. e fare iniziare la lievitazione circa 1 ora. Stendere l’impasto ad ombrisalli (ombelichi) per dritto e rovescio ( con i polpastrelli schiacciare l’impasto facendolo allargare, capovolgere l’impasto, durante la lavorazione per un paio di volte). L’impasto deve coprire tutta la superficie della teglia.
Salsa
Pomodori freschi 500 gr
Cipolla bianca 1
Olive taggiasche in salamoia 60 gr
Acciughe sottosale
Aglio (magari di Vessalico, Im)
Olio extravergine di Oneglia
Origano ( cornabuggia, in Ligure)
Sale
Passare i pomodori sulla fiamma, per spellarli meglio. Svuotarli e tagliarli concassè.
Fare un fondo con olio, cipolla a julienne, sale. Cuocere a bassa temperatura da non dorare la cipolla. Aggiungere i pomodori e cuocere 20 minuti incoperchiato. Aggiungere l’origano.
Quando la salsa è completamente fredda, versare sulla pasta, guarnire con aglio a schegge, acciughe e olive. Fare lievitare 3 ore. Cuocere a 230°C per circa 20minuti.
Anche oggi sono riuscita a parlare di qualcosa di dieteticamente equilibrato, non eccessivamente calorico e, se eliminate le acciughe, vegetariano
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