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  • CHE FACCIO NELLA VITA
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GALLINELLA ESTEMPORANEA

Come ho anticipato ieri, ho cucinato la cena di Capodanno a quattro mani, cosa a cui ultimamente non sono molto abituata. Mi è piaciuto perché ogni tanto è bello confrontarsi . Comunque è successo che per una mancanza (mia) di comunicazione, cosa fondamentale in cucina, non avevo capito la costruzione di un piatto della mia partner, che per inciso è la figlia della Quattrova, e quindi mi sono trovata a dover improvvisare, a cena già iniziata, con altre portate.

Ne è nata una ricetta di pesce, anch’essa a quattro mani con la Quattrova junior, che mi sembra niente male: è un secondo di pesce con il pregio di essere molto leggero, profumato e di “pulire” la bocca.

Il pesce in questione è la gallinella o pesce capone o luserna. E’ un pesce appartenente alla famiglia dei “triglidi”, di un bel colore rosso-arancio sul dorso, rosa ai lati e argento sul ventre, con il capo corazzato con piastre ossee e la bocca pronunciata, a becco piatto.
Le pinne pettorali sono bellissime, ampie, a forma di ventaglio, di color viola scuro orlate di azzurro. I tre raggi anteriori ed inferiori delle grandi pinne pettorali sono liberi, filiformi e utilizzate sia come papille gustative sia come arti per appoggiarsi e muoversi sui fondali in cerca della preda: la gallinella infatti è un pesce vorace che si nutre, di crostacei, molluschi e di piccoli pesci.

Mi è capitato di vederne di grandissime, fino a 6 kg, ma quel giorno le ho trovate, dal mio banco del pesce di fiducia, di piccola taglia, monoporzione, freschissime.

Non  sto a descrivere i vari passaggi che hanno portato a questa ricetta improvvisata, ma vi do la versione definitiva.

Ingredienti per 6 persone:

Gallinelle piccole (una a testa) – sedano-carota-cipolla – 2 chiodi di garofano – 2 foglie di alloro – un bicchino di sherry – un pezzo di zenzero fresco – 3 etti di lumachine di mare – un sacchetto di soncino – un melograno – un avocado – olio-sale-pepe-aglio – aceto di mele – Martini Rosso

Pulite e sfilettate le gallinelle. Mettete teste e lische in abbondante acqua, aggiungete due coste di sedano, una carota, una cipolla, alloro, chiodi di garofano e fate bollire un paio d’ore. Filtrate il brodo e se necessario schiaritelo con una chiara d’uovo sbattuta nel liquido in ebollizione finchè coagula incorporando i grassi e che eliminerete filtrando di nuovo. Rimettete  il brodo a bollire per restringerlo e in ultimo aggiungete il bicchierino di Sherry e lo zenzero tagliato sottile con il tagliatartufi. Dopo altri 5 minuti spegnete.

Nel frattempo saltate le lumachine di  mare o “maruzzelle”con uno spicchio d’aglio e olio. Sgusciatele e aggiungetele al consommé (quando è stato spento il fuoco). Secondo una antica tradizione mangiare le lumachine serve ad evitare litigi e tradimenti e questo piatto era tipico per la ricorrenza di San Giovanni il 24 giugno, il giorno dei sortilegi amorosi e dei riti delle streghe. A questi frutti di mare Renato Carosone ha dedicato una canzone…”…maruzzella…maruzzè…..”.

Preparate un’insalata (ricetta Quattrova), con il soncino, l’avocado a tocchetti e i chicchi di melograno, condite con olio, sale e poco aceto di mele.

In ultimo saltate in padella antiaderente con olio di oliva ben caldo le gallinelle sfilettate e spinate, salate, pepate e sfumate con uno spruzzo di Martini Rosso.

Servite i filetti di pesce, rosati e aromatizzati dal Martini sul letto di insalata, con la punta di rosa e aromatico della melagrana e a fianco in una ciotolina il consommé di gallinella e lumachine profumato allo zenzero (io lo lascio, perché mi piace sentirlo a lamelle sotto i denti, leggermente piccante). E’ un connubio di vegetali dalle proprietà salutari, zenzero e melagrana, con un pesce magro e la nota verde del soncino. E se come dicono anche il cromatismo aiuta la buona tavola, qui non mancano i colori accattivanti.

Buon appetito

Elena

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