Sempre dalle giornate di Eurochocolate volevo parlarvi della degustazione che ho trovato in assoluto più interessante anche se l’orario (tre del pomeriggio-bella giornata-tutti a sciare) e la scarsità di un pubblico in grado di apprezzare la manifestazione hanno fatto si che fossimo veramente un uditorio di quattro gatti. Molto imbarazzante. Soprattutto se si tiene conto che il relatore, signor Monero, proprietario della ditta Pastiglie Leone, vecchia di oltre centocinquant’anni, vanta una cultura per quanto concerne non solo il cioccolato, ma la confiserie in genere, veramente unica e una capacità di raccontare degna di un attore consumato. Veramente un piacere ascoltare la passione con cui ha narrato come il primo proprietario dell’azienda, nata confetteria a Neive, avesse uno zio che, fatalità, dal 1836 apparteneva alla confraternita dei cioccolatai. Di come passata due volte di mano, fu acquistata negli anni ’30 dai suoi genitori che erano all’epoca i maggiori distributori dei prodotti Leone e come lui stesso, appassionatosi al prodotto, riuscì ad imparare l’arte dai “ciculaté”, i cioccolatieri torinesi dei tempi d’oro fra le due guerre quando nel 1924 dalla fusione di sei differenti ditte (Michele Talmone, Moriondo e Gariglio, Fabbriche Riunite Galatine Biscuits e Affini, Dora Biscuit, I.D.E.A. (Industria Dolciumi Ed Affini) e Ferdinando Bonatti) nasce la Unica, che nel 1934 si fonde con la Venchi dando origine alla Venchi-Unica. Stiamo parlando della grande storia del cioccolato in Europa, che passa in primis per Torino e solo dopo va a Parigi. Monero documenta il primato italiano attraverso un libro edito a Lione nel 1810 scritto da un personaggio settecentesco che parla di cioccolato in tazza torinese della sua epoca. Ma si va ancora indietro, attraverso Emanuele Filiberto di Savoia, il duca detto “testa di ferro”
che aveva combattuto nel 1557 per l’imperatore Carlo V re di Spagna (che, grazie a Cortés aveva possedimenti in Messico e nei Caraibi): lui portò le prime fave in Piemonte alla fine del ‘500. L’uso del cioccolato si consolidò col figlio, Carlo Emanuele I che per motivi squisitamente politici sposò una principessa spagnola, Caterina Micaela, la quale arrivò a Torino con la sua corte, fra cui i “chocolateros” e si insediò nel castello di Miraflores, poi distrutto, però nel quartiere di Mirafiori a Torino oggi sorge un altro castello, industriale. Un filo diretto, quindi fra le americhe, i conquistadores e il Piemonte. E poi nel resto delle corti d’Europa, come la Francia dove venne introdotto da Anna d’Austria nel 1615 ma ancora nel 1688 a Parigi c’era un solo cioccolataio, David Chaillou. In ultimo in Svizzera, dove Cailler impara a fare il cioccolato da Caffarel, ma poi gli svizzeri si mettono ad usare il latte in polvere per il cioccolato al latte (i piemontesi solo latte e panna freschi). Perché? Perché nel 1870, il signor Nestlé, animato allora da buone intenzioni, si inventò il latte in polvere per neonati per le donne delle montagne che non potevano permettersi la balia per i figli.
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